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M t . K a m e t & A b i g a m i n Expedition
AN ELABORATE DESCRIPTION
Overview
Region: Garhwal Himalayas, Uttarakhand, India
Peaks: Mt. Kamet – 7,756 m (25,446 ft) Mt. Abi Gamin – 7,355 m (24,131 ft)
Expedition Duration: 28 days Dates: 20th September – 17th October 2025
Grade: Extremely Challenging
Style: Fully supported expedition
Why This Expedition is Unique
• Rare Opportunity: Civilian access to these peaks is extremely limited due to proximity to the India-China LAC (Line of Actual Control).
• Twin Summit Challenge: Attempting two 7000ers in a single expedition — a rare feat in Indian mountaineering.
• Years of Planning: Meticulous route planning, permissions, and logistics in place.
• Led by an Experienced Expedition Leader with a focus on safety, acclimatization, and summit success.
ABOUT THE PEAKS
Mt. Kamet – 7,756 m
• Second highest mountain in India (after Nanda Devi, which is restricted).
• Considered one of the closest 8000m-like expeditions in terms of technicality, exposure, and conditions.
• The final summit ridge is long, demanding strong endurance and weather planning.
Abi Gamin – 7,355 m
• Lies on the northern shoulder of Kamet.
• Close proximity to the summit camp of Kamet (Camp 5).
• Shorter but technically demanding due to exposure, snow conditions, and weather unpredictability.
Key Camps & Acclimatization Plan
• Base Camp (~5,300 m)
• Camp 1 (5,800 m)
• Camp 2 (6,200 m)
• Camp 3 (6,500 m)
• Camp 4 (6,900 m)
• Camp 5 (7,100 m) – Common high camp for both summits
Ample rest and rotation climbs included for gradual acclimatization.
What’s Included
• Complete expedition logistics.
• All required permissions (MOD, MHA, IMF).
• Certified guides, high-altitude Sherpas, and support staff.
• Technical equipment and oxygen backup.
• Accommodation and meals throughout the expedition.
• Safety protocols, medical backup, and evacuation plan.
Eligibility & Requirements
• Prior experience of climbing 6000 m+ peaks highly recommended
• Excellent physical conditioning and mental endurance
• Familiarity with technical gear usage and high-altitude survival
Final Note
This is more than just a climb — it’s a legacy expedition, rarely granted and even more rarely accomplished. If you’re looking to challenge your limits and etch your name into high-altitude history, this twin summit adventure is your calling.
➢ Region:- Gharwal Himalayas, Chamoli district,Uttarakhand , Close to border with Tibet
➢ First Ascent: Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, R.L.Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa on 21st Sep 1931.
➢ 3rd Highest Peak in India , 2ND HIGHEST PEAK WITHIN INDIAN BOUNDARIES.
➢ 29th Highest Peak in the World.
➢ Technically Difficult, with various obstructions.
➢ Considered as a good Pre 8000 metre Expedition.
➢ Surrounding peak : Mukut Prabat (7242 m), Abi Gamin (7355 m) , Mana (7202 m) ,Mana NW (7092 m)
➢ Standard Route: East Kamet Glacier ➢ Ascending via Meade’s Col between Mt. Kamet and Mt. Abi Gamin
➢ Ascent to Meade’s Col involves steep gullies, mixed climbing between C3 & C4 and large hidden crevasse between C1 TO C2 and glacier climbs
➢ Final ascent to summit involves steep snow/ice
WHY CLIMBERS SHOULD CHOOSE MT. KAMET AND ABIGAMIN EXPEDITION?
The Twin Peak Challenge of Mt. Kamet and Abi Gamin is not just another high-altitude climb — it's a rare opportunity to push your limits, test your skills, and be part of a historic and elite-level mountaineering journey in India.
Kamet is the third-highest peak in India (after K2 and Kangchenjunga), but the highest permitted for civilian climbs, making it the ultimate goal for mountaineers in India.
This is a once-in-a-decade expedition that few will ever get to be part of.
Ideal for climbers looking to train for Everest, Manaslu, or other 8000m peaks.